When i woke up, i got talking to a really nice couple who were on the adjoining berths who very curious as to where I was from and what i had seen in India. Had a nice chat and got some recommendations as to where to visit in Rajasthan. I got off at Jaipur in a really good mood.
Jaipur is a busy, dusty, bustling city of around 1.3 million.
Most of the mid-range accommodation is located in a quiet area about 2km from the centre called 'Bani Park'.
My shortlist was down to 2 hotels. After rebutting the rickshaw driver's attempts to take me to hotels where he would get commission, I chose the 'Heritage' hotel called 'Madhuban' - which was absolutely delightful. I later got talking to the owner, a guy called Dickie, who was actually a descendent of a Maharaja from the state of Patan (i think its a state...). He had some brilliant photos of his mother and father with Lord Mountbatten and wife (the last Viceroy of India).
The rooms were spotless and my room and the hotel itself had lots of antique furniture and oozed charm. It was off-season, so i got the room with AC, cable and hot water for around £21 per night..
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..the dining area was delightful...
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and the tea was served in authentic Indian bone china and silverware..

..the reading terrace and the small private pool...
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I know as a backpacker, i'd be expected to book into the black hole of Calcutta, but you have to treat yourself from time to time... :)
The other hotel was also impressive, but newer (not a Heritage) and slightly more expensive at £24 per night. It looked like a mini Palace....
The hotel was actually 18 years old but looked new as the decoration and artwork was re-touched every 6 months with much of it hand-painted...
I did go there for a meal though and took a few photos - it's called 'Umaid Mahal' and i'd recommend this as well having seen the rooms :
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The pic on the right side is of the restaurant. Even that was impressive with a beautiful ceiling. I ordered Mutton Mughlai (succulent pieces of mutton off the bone with egg in a rich creamy sauce) and vegetable pulao (which had lightly spiced pieces of paneer and vegetables)... I have to say that it was the best Indian meal i've had for a long time in India (or the UK).... It was SUPERB.....
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